When someone says Australia the word often conjures up images of red dirt, blue skies, gnarled trees, kangaroos and aboriginal culture. Kakadu National Park checks all the boxes. We spent two days and one night in this vast protected area learning about the history of the unique peoples who lived here. The 20,000 square kilometers of Kakadu border Arnhem Land, a traditional aboriginal land. The Northern Territory has the strongest sense of Native culture in modern day Australia and we learned about all aspects of traditional life in the visitor and cultural center. There are an estimated 1000 people still living as they have for thousands of years in the remote areas of the park.
During the rainy season, which we came at the end of, heavy flooding often closes roads. Then, to make matters worse crocodiles occupy the swamped roads and cause even more problems. This meant that 80 % of the dirt roads in the park were off limits even to our 4 wheel drive and we couldn't go to all the phenomenal waterfalls the park is renowned for. However, Nourlangie Rock was accessible and it's cliffs are the canvas for many aboriginal paintings in good condition. Native Australians have been around for 60,000 years and stories of ancient times have survived to this day. Lot's of paintings depicted mythical beings such as the Lightning Man as well as kangaroos and hunters. Over time the number of people living at Nourlangie Rock fluctuated and different art styles from varying time periods can be observed. After we walked the paths between decorated cliffs there was an out look on the valley. Up and and around us were towering walls of stone and one outcropping was the home of the Lightning Man and was forbidden to approach. Speaking of lightning, white flashes sparked the blue sky above the natural bowl. On the way out we saw lots of wild cockatoos and parrots.
We camped in a park camp ground and after dinner were visited by a native creature! Much to our disappointment it was later identified as a common possum not a rare species.
One issue Kakadu management faces is mining. Before European influence Aboriginal tribes identified certain areas "Poison Places." It turns out they could sense the large uranium deposits through out the region. The reason Jabiru, the only town in park borders exists is because of the mining in the area. Kakadu is ripe with natural resources so whether it should be exploited is a topic of contention.
The rest of the next day was spent exiting the park. We opted not to stop and do a long, unmarked hike in the smothering heat even though it was the only other thing open.
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